Auction Date:
Paco Rabanne
Armour Dress, 1966-69
Estimate
US $30'000 to $80'000
Description

This micro mini dress is made from chain-linked plastic metal coated square and rectangular plates. It has a square neckline, wide straps, and flared skirt.

Provenance

Private collection, Paris

Eve auction, Lot 481, Drouot, Paris - May 4, 2017

Acquired from the above by the present owner

As worn by

A version of this exact dress was worn by French New Wave actress Geneviève Thénier

In the Collection of

Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York - Gift of Jane Holzer, 1974 (same dress)

A similar metallic dresses from the 1960s are part of the collections of:

  • Palais Galliera, Paris ["Robe", 1967]
  • Museum of Decorative Arts, Paris ["Robe mini", 1968]
  • Kyoto Costume Institute, Kyoto ["Metal Worker", 1967]
  • Victoria & Albert Museum, London ["Mini dress", 1968]
  • Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam ["Dress", 1967]
Exhibition history

Mexico City, Museo Universitario de Arte Contemporáneo, "Language of Costume," July 29 – November 30, 1975.

Melbourne, National Gallery of Victoria, "Fabulous Fashion (1907–67)," May 26 – July 5, 1981.

New York, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, "Dance: A Very Social History," December 17, 1986 – September 6, 1987.

New York, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, "Haute Couture," December 7, 1995 – March 24, 1996.

Similar dress exhibited:

New York, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, "The Model as Muse: Embodying Fashion," May 6–August 9, 2009.

New York, The Museum of Modern Art, “Items: Is Fashion Modern?”, October 1, 2017 - January 28, 2018.

Literature

S. Blum, R. Clark, and L. Hamer, “Fabulous Fashion 1907-67”, New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1981. (p. 96)

C. McD. Wallace D. McDonagh, J. L. Druesedow, L. Libin, and C. Old, “Dace: A Very Social History”, New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Rizzoli, 1986 (p. 102, not illustrated)

Similar dresses were also published in:

L. Kamitsis, “Paco Rabanne, le sens de la recherche”, Paris: Michael Lafon Publisher, 1996, pp. 56 & 59 (similar dresses)

J. Eastoe, and S. Gristwood, Fabulous Frocks, London: Pavilion, 2008, p. 31

H. Koda, and Y. Kohle, The Model as Muse: Embodying Fashion, New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2009.

A. Dreyfus, Defining Dresses: A Century of Fashion, Paris: Flammarion and Les Arts Decoratifs, 2015, pp. 128, 129

A. Bolton, Magnus x Machina: Fashion in the Age of Technology, New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2016, p. 62

Maybe: P. Antonelli, M. Fisher, L. Baker, A. Burckhardt, S. Kramer, M.M. Rado, and J. Tobias, Items: Is Fashion Modern?, New York: Museum of Modern Art, 2017

Materials, measurements and labels

Materials: metal rings and plastic metal coated plates

Size 36-38

Measurements taken flat

Bust: about 82 cm; 32 in

Waist: about 74 cm; 29 in

Hips: about 90 cm; 35 in

Length from shoulder to hem: about 77 cm; 30 in

Paco Rabanne sticker written in silver on black, attached to the inside of the dress under one of the rectangles.

Peter's two cents

Part of the greatest moment of Paco's revolutionary early career, this pioneering piece is an iconic example of his genius and vision for fashion in a new age. This piece may be decades old and yet it is still far ahead of its time.

Archival Material:
Comparables: