This gilet is made from papier-mâché . The pieces of torn paper, which were likely taken from advertising posters, were layered and adhered. It is cropped and sleeveless. There are openings at both the center back and center front. The hem, neckline, and sleeve openings were intentionally left torn and unfinished. There is a plain weave cotton lining sewing to the interior o f the vest in a continuous line of machine stitching along the hem, center front, and center back closures. There are hand sewn running stitched along the sleeve openings. There is a 1” wide cotton tape to reinforce the center back interior neckline.
Artisanal Line, “Terrain Vague”.
Dead stock from one of Margiela’s first fashion retailers in the 90s
Acquired from the above by the present owner
Limited edition 1 of 1
A similar vest from the same collection is in the collection of:
- Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York
- Palais Galliera, musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris, Paris
Similar vests from the same collection have been worn on:
ELLE US Magazine cover, January 1990.
Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal, Spring/Summer 1990 (Line 0), Paris
A similar vest from the same collection was exhibited at:
Paris, Palais Galliera, Musée de la Mode de la ville de Paris, Margiela/Galliera, 1989-2009, March 3 - July 15, 2018.
Paris, Palais Galliera, Musée de la Mode de la ville de Paris, Une histoire de la mode. Collectionner, exposer au Palais Galliera, October 2, 2021 - June 26, 2022.
Antwerp, MoMu - Fashion Museum Antwerp, Fashion & Interiors. A Gendered Affair, March 29 - August 3, 2025.
Hangzhou, By Art Matters, Martin Margiela 1989 – 2009 The Women’s Collections, Curated by Alexandre Samson, September 30, 2025 - January 31, 2026.
A. Samson, Martin Margiela: The Women's Collections 1989-2009, New York: Rizzoli Electra, 2018. (pp. 23, 53)
Maison Martin Margiela, J.P. Gaultier, S. Frankel, A. Putman, and V. Beecroft, Maison Martin Margiela, New York: Rizzoli, 2009 (p. 226)
Une Histoire de la Mode Au Palais Galliera, Paris: Palais Galliera, Paris Musées, 2021.
R. Cockx, D. Flamée, M. Margiela, P. Boudens, Maison Martin Margiela's White Universe 1988-2008, Antwerp: MoMu - Fashion Museum Antwerp, 2025. p. 24 (zine)
R. Cockx, R Schuldenfrei, and L. Steinhäußer, Fashion & Interiors - A Gendered Affair. Antwerp: Simon and Schuster, 2025.
Materials: Paper, adhesive, plainweave cotton lining.
Taken on mannequin
CF length, neckline to hem: 13”
CB length, neckline to hem: 16 ½”
Shoulder to shoulder: 12 ½”
Bust: 31”
Waist (open): 32”
Blank white rectangular label
One of the most innovative and iconic pieces ever to be created by Margiela. This celebrated work is a perfect example of his groundbreaking style which we all recognize today.
