Auction Date:
John Galliano
Matador showpiece worn by Meghan Douglas, F/W 1995-96
Estimate
US $60'000 to $150'000
Description

As with many of the other Galliano pieces featured in the sale, this gown was made in France and is the original gown that was sent down the runway in 1995. It is crafted from a black satin that is cut on the bias in Galliano's signature style. There is an asymmetrically draped shoulder strap and detachable train. The train is lined in contrasting bright fuchsia silk taffeta. There is a ribbon rosette constructed from green, white, and black grosgrain ribbons located at the proper right back hip. The train is also attached here and cascades from under the rosette.

“Dolores del Rio” Collection. Look 22.

Provenance

Atelier John Galliano, Paris

Collection of Jørgen Simonsen, Paris

As worn by

This gown was worn by Meghan Douglas for its runway debut.

In the collection of

Another dress from the Fall/Winter 1995-96 collection is in the collection of:

  • The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York
  • Madonna

Another version of this dress was made for Mrs. Getty in midnight blue and fuchsia.

Literature

The Dolores collection is written about extensively in:

K. Taylor, Galliano: Spectacular Fashion, London/New York: Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 2020, pp. 109-113 (other ensembles illustrated)

Materials, measurements and labels

Materials: viscose/acetate satin black crêpe, synthetic grosgrain ribbon

Measurements taken flat:

Bust: 32”

Waist: 24”

Hips: 32”

Center front length of dress from neckline to hem: 59”

Center back length of dress from neckline to hem (incl. train of cape): 71”

Brown label with blue letters stitched on the inside of the dress, ‘John Galliano Paris’.

Peter's two cents

This one is a real favorite, sublimely elegant and romantic, I feel this gown is the height of Galliano in the early years of his brand. Here we can see his ability to make garments into theater that conjures emotion in both the wearer and the viewer.

Comparables:
Also by the artist: