When did "copy" become such a bad word? Back in the High Renaissance, copying was a way to acquire new skills, artists then learned by copying their masters: Michelangelo copied Bertoldo di Giovanni, Raphael did da Vinci, Van Gogh did Delacroix, and the list goes on. Before cameras were at the tip of our fingers, artists even copied their own work before it left their studio.
By the beginning of the XXth century, Cubist artists and Duchampians alike looked outside of the canon of art history for their inspiration and began incorporating elements from the day to day into their work –newspaper clippings, ready-mades, and such. Taking mass produced objects, which belong to everyone and no one, and making it their own, aproriare. Fragments of our daily life and objects from the zeitgeist recontextualized and reappropriated by an artist.
By the time Andy Warhol came around, the Mona Lisa was not so much a masterpiece of the Italian Renaissance, as it was a cultural trope and by-product appropriated by the Dada movement.
A keen observer and lover of pop culture, Warhol found inspiration in the mainstream like an Impressionist in a bucolic landscape. He turned mass produced objects into art, and people into objects.
Having gained the status of 'court painter' (to quote Robert Rosenblum) making commissioned portraits for various New York socialites, Warhol slowly wandered out of said court and into the public square of fandom, introducing portraits of celebrities; Elizabeth Taylor, Mao, Jackie O, starting with Marilyn Monroe. Unlike the commissioned portraits, the images sourced for the celebrity portraits didn't come from Warhol's own Big Shot Polaroid camera, but from popular media sources: advertisements, paparazzi snapshots, propaganda images, anything to further the distance between the individual and the public figure. Treating them as characters or archetypes whether it be the grieving widow, the madonna, or the sex symbol. In Warhol's Catholic culture, I believe they call those 'Icons'.
So one can only imagine Warhol's excitement when in 1966, German industrial heir and famed playboy Gunter Sachs showed up at his door with a photo of his then-wife Brigitte Bardot torn from a 1959 Harper's Bazaar requesting Warhol to make a series of portraits from it. The photograph was taken by none other than Richard Avedon at the zenith of Bardot' stardom, following the release of her breakthrough film "And God Created Woman."
Forget that she was then married to another man (namely above-film director Roger Vadim), Sachs wanted to capture her at her peak, encapsulating the icon that she was, the sexual revolution she embodied and the national monument she later became (1). Warhol, who had met the actress that summer, could have very much shot his own source image for this commission like he did for all the others, and Sachs could have provided a candid image of her, something more personal. But what makes this request so special, and Sachs' understanding of Warhol so acute, is that they instead used a ready-made like those appropriated for the Icons series. Personal relationship or not, Warhol didn't see Bardot as a pal but as a myth, a character he likely would have made an unprompted portrait of anyway.
Warhol came out of his short-lived retirement to complete the series of eight portraits which was delivered in 1974, two years after completing the other commission portraying Sachs himself (using a Jay Ullal photograph for the record). It is hard to imagine the glamour-hungry Warhol passing on this Avedon-Bardot-Sachs Holy Trinity served on a silver platter. The Avedon portrait, by its symmetry and distinct game of shadows and exposures, felt Warholian to begin with, but like a utopic collaboration, Warhol almost picked up where Avedon left off, perfectly framing and accentuating the elements that were already present. The sensuality of her lips, the thickness of her mane, and the depth of her eyes; Bardot's portrait is as mesmerizing as it is unattainable.
Now a ubiquitous work, Warhol created his own ready-made, an object as archetypical as its participant, an image that is not his, that is no longer hers, and that belongs to the public.
(1) In 1969 Brigitte Bardot became the first personality to become the Marianne, the national emblem for the French Republic in the form of a bust